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Across the River from the Louvre is the Musée d’Orsay. Housed in a former train station, the Gare d’Orsay, this museum boasts one of the largest collections of the impressionist paintings in the world, French Impressionist paintings. Not that there is much reason to make that distinction. I’m sure you’re coming to France to look at Pissaro and Degas rather than California’s brand of Impressionist: eucalyptus trees and seas shores. Long ago, Impressionist paintings were not accepted in the Louvre, maybe the tide will turn one day for California.
Once called the most beautiful avenue in the world, the Champs Elysees may not be anymore, but it is arguably the most famous boulevard in the world. This wide tree lined street has graced many canvases, films and photographs. Today many retail companies have their flagship stores like Louis Vuitton and Adidas, Recently the French Government denied H&M retail space on the boulevard, but allowed Abercrombie and Fitch. Odd? Maybe pricey rag-tag clothing is exotic in France.
If you’re looking for the perfect gift for those not fortunate enough to travel the world, come to Fauchon. It’s the perfect mix of “I’m thinking of you” and “I’m rubbing in my trip to Paris”. You will find it not far from the Hotel France Albion on the far side of Place de la Madeleine. Here you will find the most delectable, as well as beautiful, pastries, petit fours, macarons, cookies, chocolates and cakes. Most will be made suitcase friendly for the trip home.
You might be surprised to know that there is more in common with the actual Opera Garnier and it’s fictional counterpart than you would think. Gaston Leroux was inspired to write the Phantom of the Opera during the constructions of the Opera Garnier. The old Paris Opera had burned down and a new one needed to go up. The construction was halted by the discovery of an underground lake (like in the book) and the skeletons of men who had died during the short-lived Paris commune. And in 1896, one of the counter-weights broke causing the chandelier to fall, killing one woman and injuring many (like in the book). The cross-section of the Opera shows the compartments and secret rooms, makes the story seems all the more plausible. Although there may have never been a phantom, I’m sure there were star-crossed lovers and fat sopranos (like in the book).
This English style garden is slightly out of place in land of the symmetrical, well-ordered and landscaped French gardens. The Parc Monceau was formerly the private park of the estate of Phillippe d’Orléans. Although he was cousin to the King of France, Phillipe was a lover of all things English and had his park landscaped in the English-style, which is to say had it “unlandscaped”. Along with rambling paths and scattered statues, a Dutch windmill, an Egyptian pyramid and a Chinese fort grace this Parisian oasis. The Parc Monceau is a free wi-fi zone, there are jogging paths and children’s play areas and plenty of perfect picnic spots. Who needs order and symmetry when you can have fun?
If you’d like to know what Paris looked like before it’s severe facelift in the middle of the 19th century, come to Montmartre. It is estimated that the City Planner, Baron Haussmann transformed 60% of Paris’ buildings, but nothing was touched in the Montmartre district. Here you can still find winding streets, rickety medieval buildings and quaint cafés overlooking bustling squares.
As Montmartre was officially outside of Paris proper, Haussmann didn’t touch it. And as well, since it was outside of Paris, it was exempt for the Paris Liquor Tax. Cheap booze, low rents and terrific views of the city, Montmartre was the perfect place for artists to flourish.
Long ago before Paris was the city of Love, it was just a tiny village built on the banks of the Seine River. And as France was almost constantly at war with the English, Paris was surrounded by thick walls to keep the enemies out. In 1640, those fortifications were torn down, but in the north of Paris, the wall left a long swath from Place de la Madeleine (still two hundred years away) to the Place de la Bastille. In it’s place, were built great boulevards or Les Grands Boulevards.
The Grand Boulevards are really six different boulevards that run into each other. It really is one long street although every couple of blocks, it changes names. Boulevard Saint Martin becomes Boulevard de Bonne Nouvelle, becomes Boulevard Poissonière, etc. These streets are a strollers paradise and have been every since Paris traded War for Love.
This fantastic bar is just a few steps from the Opera. Established in 1911, Harry’s Bar has been bringing ex-pats together for close to a hundred years. This birthplace of the Bloody Mary was the former meeting place of Hemingway, Humphrey Bogart, and Rita Hayworth. When adrift on a sea of French speakers, sometimes it’s nice to climb aboard a raft with some English speakers. And Harry’s New York Bar is my kind of raft.
This famous neo-classical temple sits at the far end of Rue Royal. Originally a memorial commissioned by Napoleon in celebration of his Grande Armée, the building was re-purposed as a church dedicated to Mary Magdalene, or La Madeleine. Today, the church holds Benedictine Masses and extremely exclusive weddings.
All around the square are specialty food shops. My favorite is Maille; this flagship store sells a dozen different flavors of their famous mustard, such as fig, honey, extra strong or horseradish. Not sure you’re gonna like fig flavored mustard when you get it home, there’s a tasting bar!